A delicious turkey-burger melt. With waffle fries, which are awesome.

* * * Windsor 75
35 Poquonock Ave., Windsor, (860) 925-6256, windsor75.com

"You're not Greek, are you?" our waiter asked as he sat Lisa and me in a booth at Windsor 75, a family restaurant.

"No," I said.

"Then you'll need silverware," he said, without pausing a second, handing us our menus and heading to the counter to grab forks and knives. It may be a line he's used hundreds of times, but as far as waitstaff humor goes — even offensive humor — it was pretty OK.

From the outside, Windsor 75 doesn't beckon much to the world. The exterior — lots of wood, not many windows — is plain, almost to the point of being invisible. But the interior is clean and uncluttered, and the service is quick and attentive, if a bit shticky at times. The food selection is more or less a predictable range of family restaurant and diner offerings, with a few Greek specials, but, as with the smart-alecky service, it's all done with an attention to detail and a quick playfulness.

The restaurant is divided into two dining areas on either side of the bar area. There were about five spacious booths in the section where we were seated. TVs played the news from Wall Street. Business people were clearly having a working lunch at one of the booths, and our waiter made a point of telling them that the restaurant had free Wi-Fi. Bring your laptops and hang out for a while, have a meeting, was what he more or less told them. There was a congenial sense of welcome to the place. I wouldn't call it effortless, because the staff was clearly working to give that impression, but that didn't make it phony.

The breakfast menu offers all the eggy and porky and bready wonders that make the first meal the best. Steak, ham, sausage, waffles, french toast, pancakes, bagels, breakfast sandwiches, omelets, etc.

Our lunch was restrained and well proportioned, though. Lisa tried the pumpkin bisque, which was one of the special soups. I found this to be a little too closely related to all the familiar Thanksgiving/pumpkin pie flavors than what I wanted in a bisque. Lisa tweaked some of the desserty effect by showering the soup with black pepper. I'd asked for the salad that came with my entree to be transformed into a Greek salad, which our waiter gamely followed through on, having some black olives and feta added to the mix. The salad was simple, but satisfyingly fresh and crisp and not carelessly arranged.

In addition to the fried chicken, roast turkey, pork chops and Italian specials, the menu at Windsor 75 features about a half-dozen burger variations, plus souvlaki and gyros. Poke around and you'll also find BBQ ribs and meat loaf. There's also plenty of seafood. And I ordered the baked salmon, which had an understated balsamic drizzle across the fish. A side of mashed potatoes included a relatively restrained brown gravy, which provided something to dunk the spuds in without weighing things down. Broccoli cooked in a little oil and garlic added an appealing bit of contrasting color to the plate. And the kitchen should be commended for not overcooking either the salmon or the broccoli. This was a well-executed entree, but I found myself thinking that it was much better — solid and tasty — than what one might expect at an average family restaurant.

Lisa was similarly pleased with her burger melt, which she had with a spicy turkey burger on marble rye. The burger really had a peppery kick, and the meat was firm and flavorful. The plate was loaded up with hefty waffle fries, golden brown, and hard to stop eating.

We finished up with an order of the bread pudding, which was dense and almost flan-like. The coffee was strong enough to lure me back with the laptop. They might have to kick us out next time. We'll see who's laughing then.